14th June: Buxton – Flagg – Ravenstor YHA: 18km
Wondering where I might go away, for various logistical reasons I decided on a night at a YHA in the Peak District rather than a couple of nights in a tent in the Lake District. To that end, I got a late morning train to Buxton to find it slightly chillier than expected. I pulled my hood up to get a feeling of anonymity in the busy town and slipped quickly through quiet backstreets into the countryside.
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| Deep Dale |
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| Chelmorton |
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| Flagg |
Out near Sladen, on the Limestone Trail, some swifts were swooping above a field of new-mown grass, and beyond that, crossing a field full of wildflowers, I felt my heart open up and my mood lift. There were voices below me in Deep Dale, seemingly heading towards the closed section, then a bloke on the far side, a couple of DoE groups in Chelmorton, and then no one until Taddington, apart from farmers raking hay or scooping it into trailers. Just outside Taddington, in the sunshine, I sat by a small pond on the Jarnett (a road) for a sandwich amongst tall marsh orchids and skimming dragonflies. With plenty of time before check-in, I called into the Queen’s Arms for a pint.
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| Taddington |
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| Marsh orchids near Taddington |
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| Taddington |
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| Brushfield above Miller's Dale |
More lovely field-walking took me across the serene High Dale then down the valley side, which was covered in common spotted orchids, to Litton Mill. A Dutch couple in a campervan were catching the late afternoon sun and watched me go the wrong way through a miniature forests of butterbur leaves before I got to the steps up Bellamy’s Bank (named after the late naturalist). The path took me through the grounds of the YHA, which is a grand house built in 1907 by the owner of Litton Mill. I had a burger at the hostel then walked down to the Angler’s Rest, sitting out by the river and watching grey wagtails jump for insects. The landlady called time early as I was the only customer left, so I headed back to the hostel to read my book, happy with a satisfying day.
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| Ravenstor YHA in Miller's Dale |
15th June: Ravenstor YHA – Hathersage: 23km
After breakfast in the restaurant, I heaved by bag onto my back and set out back to the mill. It felt chilly in a cold breeze and I wondered if I should have brought gloves. Once I had passed a couple of dog walkers near the houses, I saw no one until Coombs Dale about 2½ hours later. Water-cum-Jolly Dale was pleasant with the gurgle of water and the calls of birds. Cressbrook Dale was shaded in the lush tree-cover but I was rather put off by the smell of the rotting wild garlic. I climbed up and round Wardlow Hay Cop, using the concessionary footpath up to Castlegate Lane. I had various options here and I chose to go over the top of Longstone Moor. It was a good choice as it was a delight to walk there amongst the heather with somewhat hazy views north to Abney Moor and south around Bakewell.
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| Cressbrook Dale |
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| Looking down to Eyam |
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| Bretton Clough |
Coombs Dale actually felt a bit of a drag, I always forget how long it is, and there was a short time when it got busy with a number of couples and some DoE groups. I cut across to Stoney Middleton and up to Eyam where I called into the friendly village shop to get some lunch, which I ate in the main square. My cue to leave was a group of young kids being led round on a school trip. The next section was slow as I climbed up and up...and up to Sir William Hill. It was also at this point that rain started to fall. I put my coat on but the rain was very light and I was soon stuffing it back into the bag again.
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| Rabbit keeping very still |
Hathersage was in sight as I dropped into the greenery of Bretton Clough. High Low Wood was busy with wood ants as usual, building huge mounds of pine needles as nests. The final section along tarmac and pavements was a drag again but soon over, and before long I was supping a pint in the Little John, waiting for my train home. It was a thoroughly enjoyable couple of days, passing through some of my favourite countryside and seeing some gorgeous sights.
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