Thursday 22 December 2022

In Need of Repair

 

I had almost missed autumn.  The leaves had turned orange and fallen from the trees, and the days had shortened by the time I finally made it out to the Peak District on a grey, slightly damp day.  There were still haw berries and rosehips on the stripped-back branches, each fruit holding a bleb taken from the damp air and reflecting the overcast sky back at it.  The red fruit stood out against the fields’ limestone walls, against the fading trees and the pale grass.

Three months earlier I had been running in the gym, tired from a recent visit to the Lake District, when I felt a terrible crushing sensation in my chest making it impossible to continue.  I cut the run even shorter than I had planned to and was pleased to soon recover my composure.  It was an unexpected type of tiredness, I supposed, and assumed it would go away with some rest.  It didn’t.  Each time I ran, I felt the same crushing discomfort, and when I walked up hills, I would feel the pain move up into my jaw, as though I had been chewing too hard on some particularly crusty bread.  I knew this wasn’t good, having foolishly looked up the symptoms of angina, and called the doctor.

While waiting for appointments and calls back, I tried to pretend nothing was wrong and carried on walking, only with the expectation that I was going to have to go a bit easier.  Perhaps it might just be a chest infection that would be cleared up by a course of antibiotics.  This didn’t prove to be a great plan, as I struggled up gentle slopes, gasping and dizzy in some distress.  Having warned Martin, my walking companion, about my state, he said, ‘Yes, it’s the first time I’ve heard you breathing going uphill.’

Eventually I had an ECG at the GP’s and was told to continue waiting for my consultation at the NHS Rapid Access Chest Clinic at Stepping Hill.  When I spoke to the clinic, I was told there was a nine-week waiting list to be seen.  This condition was affecting my life too much though – just walking to the shops would leave me sucking hard on inadequate air – so I invoked the company private medical scheme to speed things up.  It felt odd, having to choose a hospital and a doctor for yourself – what did I know?  My choice was based on location, specialisation and availability.

It was all booked and, as part of the handover to the private hospital, I was sent the ECG and notes.  It was here that I first read, ‘The possibility of an old inferior myocardial infarction.’  A heart attack?  When did I have a heart attack?  Why didn’t anyone tell me?  The shocking revelation was dizzying in itself and was hard to believe, given that I had kept on walking and running.  Had it happened in the Lake District?  Was it that first time in the gym?  Was it months ago and I never noticed?

 

It’s funny how clear things can seem some days.  On that autumn walk the colours zinged out at me.  Climbing out of the valley, the limestone outcrops had sharp, hard lines around them, the multi-hued greys of the rocks and lichen glowed out from the surrounding greens and browns.  The world seemed alive and full of beauty, welcoming me and offering me these sights.  On some other days, it’s all just grey, nothing is clear and you pass through it without seeing a thing.  That walk was in technicolour.

 

The private consultation came about quickly.  I was trembling with nerves as I walked into the hospital, unsure what I would be told, and unsure what outcome I wanted.  The consultant cardiologist had a pleasant, confident manner, quizzing me about my state and reading my notes.  He took another ECG and, on reviewing everything, switched into action mode.  He immediately prescribed a whole string of drugs and seemed very keen that I should start on them without the slightest delay.  He said he would run more tests but felt I should be put forward right away for an angiogram (injecting dye into the blood and viewing the state of the arteries via x-ray) with an expectation that I would require a stent.

All this sudden decisiveness and action had me reeling.  Perhaps the shock showed in my face because he twice said to me, ‘I’m sorry to have to tell you, I’m just saying how things are.’  I staggered out of the hospital in a daze, thinking, ‘Well, there you are, you’re a condemned man, damned for what you’ve done.’  I slumped into my car and burst into tears.

Despite this shock, I still wasn’t quite accepting the situation and went ahead with a short break to the Lake District, after consultation with Jill, with whom I was travelling.  I had a short walk in mind, though it did involve climbing a hill.  On the day, that plan proved impossible to fulfil.  I set off up the gently-climbing valley track but was soon having to stop to let dizziness pass me by.  The awfulness of the situation was overwhelming in itself, but it was the thought of how my friends would offer me sympathy and help, were I to open up to everyone about my condition, that actually brought me to tears – though crying while walking, when you’re gasping for air anyway, isn’t a good idea.  My turnaround point was at Lingcove Bridge, a beautiful old packhorse bridge over the rocky burble of the River Esk, deep in the heart of the most impressive hills in the area.  I sat on a rock by the stream, wondering about my future and trying to recover something for my immediate present.  Through the anguish I vowed, ‘I’m going to come back here.  When this is over, I am going to return and remember how this felt.’  Weak and despondent, I returned down the valley.

We cut the holiday short by a day and I drove home on my birthday for a consultation with the cardiologist who would be performing my angiogram.  He had the same calm, self-confidence as the other doctor and passed some of that composure on to me, leaving my feeling better about what would happen. I started telling a few more friends and family what was happening, now I had something decisive to say, and it felt a relief to do so. 

A familiar reaction on hearing the news was, ‘But you’re so fit’.  What could I say?  Yes, I know, beats me too.  The Icelandic singer, Prins Polo, had just died.  One of his big hits was ‘Lif, ertu að grinnast?’, or ‘Life, are you kidding?’  That seemed an appropriate response.  All this time in the gym, all the hills climbed, the streets pounded, and still I end up here.  And what would it mean for the future?  My ambitions were all to do with long walks, multi-day trails, a wish to revisit the Himalaya.  Without all these things, who was I, what was I for?

There’s an Emily Dickinson poem that begins, ‘Because I could not stop for Death – He kindly stopped for me’.  I had been busy doing things – going to the gym, cooking healthy meals, drinking beer, going on holiday, going to the rugby, walking, walking, walking.  I had no plans to stop and yet here were Death’s dark wings fluttering around me.  Life is only provisional, things can come to a sudden stop without warning, without caring what gets upset.  And yet we must continue as if we’re eternal, what else can we do?

 

I went back to the first cardiologist for an echocardiogram, an ultrasound scan of my heart using the same technology they use to scan a pregnancy.  Afterwards he reassured me that everything was fine, the heart attack had left no noticeable damage and so a fix to the blocked artery should return me to full fitness.  He showed me the images and videos he had captured.  A coloured still of my heart was made of red and green swashes, like the aurora borealis.  A grainy black and white video showed a shadowy valve, fringed in the image as though encrusted with lichen, flapping up and down in the dark.  But all was well, that was the message I wanted to hear, and I positively skipped out of the hospital.

On the day of the procedure, Pete kindly gave me a lift to the hospital.  I had been slightly affronted at first when it was suggested that I should get someone’s help rather than just take a taxi, as I had planned, as if I could suddenly no longer cope on my own.  It was a welcome lift, nonetheless.  The room I was led to at the hospital looked rather like a chain hotel, a Premier Inn, say, but for the unusual equipment at the head of the bed, all wires and sockets and dials.  Someone came in to take my meal orders: post-op, evening and breakfast.  Then I was left to watch cycling on the telly while I waited to be called.

It was some hours before I was asked to change into a gown and was then escorted to the operating theatre, a room full of equipment and darkened corners where gowned individuals conferred.  The figures loomed over me in rotation as I lay on the table, in a scene that I imagined was like a Joseph Wright painting with me at the bright centre.  I was pronged, clipped in and slooshed around, while complicated layers of material were folded over me like some ritualistic swaddling.  The usual route to the heart for the catheter that would insert the dye is through the wrist and up the arm but, after some uncomfortable poking about, the doctor appeared above me and said my artery was looped at the elbow so they couldn’t get past.  Instead, the route to my heart was via my groin, something many people have previously suspected.  The femoral artery is much wider but carries higher risk hence why they prefer to go through the wrist.

The whole procedure took 90 or more minutes to go through and I started to feel chilly and uncomfortable on the slab, not least because the dye makes you want to go to the toilet, despite seven hours without liquids.  There was a discussion of hardware (‘Have you got a 36 mill?’, ‘There’s 32?’) before the stent was fed in and expanded correctly.  ‘He wants to get it perfect,’ one of the assistants explained as the time ticked by.  At the end, the doctor wheeled a screen over to show me the x-rays, before and after.  The blockage was clear and almost complete.  My poor heart had done its best to compensate with the left artery but the right was a starveling mess.  There was my problem in plain black and white, incontrovertible, a killer in waiting.  Thankfully the ‘after’ picture was much better and the artery had filled up hungrily with flowing blood.  It was hard to believe that I now had some alien metal embedded inside me, in such a significant and symbolic organ as the heart too.

In recovery I was kept horizontal for some hours while the femoral wound was monitored.  In that position I was told sadly I would have to forgo my pan-fried salmon as I wouldn’t be able to eat it lying down.  Slowly over the evening I was raised up until I could eat a sandwich, the first food for 12 hours, and watch TV.  I’m not sure what the medical staff made of the evening of TS Eliot that I chose to view.  ‘When, under ether, the mind is conscious, but conscious of nothing’ (The Four Quartets).  It feels dreamlike looking back, constantly monitored, a canula in one hand, a pressure bandage on the other wrist, my legs still covered with the rugs from the operating theatre.

The next day, after a good breakfast, they checked my signs, changed my dressings and gave me the green light to leave.  Pete once again gave me a lift.  I spent most of the day dozing, having had a disturbed night and being slightly under the effects of the sedation.  I kept returning to the thought of the blocked artery and how close I might have been to suffering something worse than I did.  It’s odd, having spent so many years feeling ‘half in love with easeful Death’ (Keats) and then being confronted with it in reality.  In a poem by Emily Brontë, each stanza ends with a variant of ‘I cannot, cannot go’.  And that was me, with one wrist bandaged like a failed suicide, I had clung onto life.  I had been touched by grace, that generous form of contingency, or perhaps had just been the recipient of simple luck.  Or had it actually been something in my will?  ‘I will not, cannot go.’

Looking back now, I think of the times during the year when I had struggled more than I had expected to – on Nethermost Pike’s east ridge, on Win Hill after the second day of backpacking, on Hall’s Fell and Sharp Edge, on Harter Fell and Green Crag.  Rather than instances of my lack of fitness, as I had thought at the time, these must all have been skirmishes in the lead up to the main attack, or perhaps consequences of an unnoticed attack.  Now I’m slowly rebuilding my fitness with the hope that one day I can take on such challenges again.

 

The autumn air in the Peak District was full of seasonal smells: damp earth, damp wood, rotting vegetation.  The countryside air seemed to be literally breathing life back into me after my touch of Death.  ‘Every leaf speaks bliss to me,’ says Emily Brontë of autumn.  To be out there amongst it, to be able to walk there again, filled me with such joy that tears filled my eyes.  Down by the River Wye, just beyond Ashford in the Water, the bright blue blur of a kingfisher streaked along the river ahead of me, leading me on to my destination.



Tuesday 23 August 2022

Yorkshire Wolds 20th August 2022

While visiting family and friends over in Yorkshire, I took the opportunity to head out for a walk in the Wolds, a familiar stomping ground from my youth. I parked up at the new car park at Huggate, and walked through the village and down to Rabbit Dale.
It was a warm but breezy day and the sky looked rather threatening though in the end the rain didn't amount to anything.

As I turned into Harper Dale, a large, dark red shape took to the air. The size and colour gave me a moment of cognitive dissonance, when I couldn't process what I was seeing. Very quickly the shape resolved itself into a red kite, which calmly made its way, quartering the valley.

Horse Dale was all headwind. Having passed the sheep, and just sharing a friendly word with them, I looked up to see a hare bounding up the hillside. Although I see hares in the Peak District, I see them most reliably in the Wolds.

The woods in Tun Dale are always impressive, the trunks soaring up like columns in a cathedral. Sadly all the ash trees in these plantations showed signs of dieback.

The route took me into the lovely Millington Dale.

And then up Nettle Dale.

More Nettle Dale.

Nettle Dale again. I'd stopped for lunch.

The final section took me along Hawold Bridle Road and to the road back into the village (by which I mean the Wolds Inn).


 

Monday 30 May 2022

White to Dark Way: May 2022

 The White to Dark Way was designed 10 years ago by Country Walking to celebrate 25 years of the magazine.  It had been on my to-do list since then and finally this year I got round to organising it.  The route card specifies three days, but for me that makes the days a bit short, so I decided to take two days, though it made one of the days a little long.

Day One

To start in Bakewell, I took the train from Stockport to Buxton with the intention of jumping on a connecting bus.  About 10 minutes before it was supposed to arrive, the High Peak Twitter feed informed me that it wasn't going to run.  More helpfully they let me know that the next bus, in an hour's time, was running, so I wandered into town and wasted time in a coffee shop.


The route goes up to the Monsal Trail, just by Hassop Station, then follows the trail all the way to Cressbrook Mill.  Not the most fun 4km so I broke with habit and listened to a podcast.  With the bridge at the Mill still being out of action, I dropped down early and followed the road to Ravendale onto the path through Cressbrook Dale, which was full of wild garlic.  Tansley Dale still had a few rather addled-looking Early Purple Orchids.  It was spitting with rain so I took shelter in the Red Lion at Litton (otherwise it would have been more obvious to simply continue up Cressbrook Dale).  The rain eased off briefly before setting in much more heavily after Wardlow Mires.  Unfortunately I had trusted the morning's forecast and had discarded my waterproof overtrousers to save weight.  The result was water running down my soaked legs and filling my boots.  Yuck.





Dripping wet I took shelter in the Bull's Head at Foolow,  Some more drenched walkers followed me in.  The landlady said I ought to stay in the pub for the rest of the day, which seemed an eminently sensible suggestion.  However, I was just heading for Eyam so as the rain eased off again I made a dash for it.  I was staying at the YHA, a steep yomp up behind the village, where I dropped my stuff, had a welcome shower and put on a dry set of clothes, leaving my boots steaming in the drying room.  Dinner was back down the hill in the, somewhat quiet, Miner's Arms.

Day Two

A school party were staying in the hostel (in a different building to me, thank goodness) and I was warned they would be breakfasting at 8 o'clock, so I was down early to fill up on a very good full English.  That done, I lugged my tombstone bag onto my back and trudged up the hill behind the hostel (it looks like there's a gate at the back of the grounds that would have saved some descent and re-ascent).  The day was brighter but there were a few hints of rain.  Thankfully these didn't amount to anything in the end.  However, the wind was very strong and hit me with full force crossing Eyam Moor.  Other goals for the day stretched out ahead of me - Stanage Edge, Win Hill.  Bretton Clough looked gorgeous as ever with hawthorn blossom and buttercups adding colour to the greenery.  The bridge across Highlow Brook towards High Low was leaning over and didn't look passable, so I was glad the water level was low and I could easily step across the beck.  More stepping stones took me over the Derwent and into Hathersage.  I planned to get lunch at the bakery but that was closed until the 10th, and looked like it was for sale, so I ended up at Coleman's Deli - a little fancier and more expensive, but very tasty (falafel wrap).






It was a slow but steady stomp up Stanage Edge and actually I felt pretty good.  It went less well up on the Edge itself.  The wind battered across me the whole way, making me stumble, sway sideways and trip on my swinging poles.  Altogether generally maddening.  It was better into the headwind following the path down to Ladybower.  I had planned a rest stop at the Ladybower Inn but it bore a sign reading, 'Closed until further notice.'  Drat.  Instead I ate my Mars Bar Slice by the side of the reservoir and contemplated the forthcoming climb up Win Hill.

The path took a gentle approach at first before hooking up with the Parkin Clough path and rearing steeply up the hillside.  I was puffing at bit by this point and my 'Hello' to a descending walker came out in a rather strangulated way.  He clearly took pity on me reassured me I was nearly at the top (which I already knew, as I've climbed the hill a number of times).

There just followed a steep descent back down into Hope for a celebratory pint at the Old Hall.

It had been an enjoyable couple of days, despite the less than perfect weather and the challenges of the route.  In retrospect, I think it might have been better to do it the other way round and get the hard day out of the way first.  That also has the benefit of finishing at the Thornbridge Brewery Taproom.  Hurrah!